Varnish is the hard finish, and if you want to opt for hardest one you should go for traffic. it comes in matt, satin and gloss. it's apparently as endurable that you can walk with high heels and it won't get scratched but 5 years down the line it slightly changes the colour (towards yellowish).. You can buy satin finish varnish, which gives the same soft sheen as wax. i've also used a floorboard finish which was a colour & varnish combined - sorry can't recall which one, but i think it was cuprinol. wax will be very hard work to apply and you'll need to re-do it now and then as it will eventually wear off.. Any other previous finish (varnish, wax, oil, polish) needs to be completely removed before varnishing so that the timber is free of dirt, wax, polish and grease etc. once the old finish has been removed, the floorboards will need to be sanded and, if required, stained..
Applying hard wax oil. the way in which hard wax oil should be applied depends on the brand of product but there are few common procedures which always apply. preparation of the substrate. the floor surface prior to the work has to be dry and free of dirt, grease dust and any old varnish or wax residue. unfinished wood must never be cleaned. Oil-based based varnish will darken a floor. water-based varnish (e.g. dulux diamond glaze) will not darken it so much, but is weaker (despite the ad claims). wood oil is the easiest, but will darken it a bit. when you get a floor in good condition it is important and easier to redo it every other year or so.. For example a white paint applied first followed by a clear varnish, for protection, will result in a yellow/cream colour finish. the clear product impacts on how the light reflects on the white and you loose the purity..
No comments:
Post a Comment